Published in the SMH on Friday 9th January, 2009.
Got into the office early today; I had to head up to the new Spice Temple site to try and get the staff in and the builders out. Who in their right mind would open a restaurant?
I answered some emails and quickly took a look at the Herald website, smh.com.au. It was going to be my only news for the day. Besides, Australia had won the Test and I wanted to make sure that only good things were written about my boys. Then I saw it…a story by Jordan Baker about restaurants (http://www.smh.com.au/news/opinion/who-in-their-right-mind-would-open-a-restaurant/2009/01/08/1231004192765.html). I don’t know why I read it, shouldn’t have really, but as I did I really felt I needed to post a comment back. I felt compelled to. I had to wave the flag for the team, so to speak. I really never do it; no, I promise I never write letters to the editor, but this morning, with the weight of a restaurant opening on my shoulders and a huge debt building, I couldn’t stay silent.
In one part of the story, Baker was taking a shot at restaurants that have a no bookings policy and suggesting that in some way it is unfair to the dining public. I took from it that perheaps the restaurateurs were doing this out of a flight of fancy just to see the patrons squirm and wait for a table.
The simple reality of it is restaurants that don’t take bookings usually serve more people during that particular service, and it is for that very reason those restaurants are more efficient and have lower operating costs. The reason these restaurants are usually popular is that they are a very good value. What they do with those operating savings is pass them on to the customers, so everyone is happy. That is indeed why they are so busy, not just because they don’t take bookings, but because they are generally more affordable.
It is an expensive business to have a table sit empty while you are waiting for a booking to arrive. Everyone in Sydney seems to want to eat at the same time and this is a problem for the expensive real estate that your restaurant is. If you can spread the bookings out, great, but the easiest way to acheive this is by taking no bookings at all. Customers get very good at understading they either come late, early or have a great drink at the bar and enjoy the ambience. As it turns out, I have noticed that people do, in the main, thrive in this busy, buzzy atmosphere of a heaving restaurant. We are fundamentally social animals and love being together. I think, in many cases, places with really great ambience have it because people are waiting. In fact, I’m sure it is so, as people wouldn’t queue unless there were a number of good reasons, one usually being it is good value and two, it’s a fun place to hang as well.
At a restaurant like Sopra – both at Danks Street in Waterloo and on Macleay Street in Potts Point – they have only 40 to 60 seats, yet they do over 120 customers every service. Yes, you have to wait but your prize is beautiful produce, cooked well, at affordable prices.
This couldn’t happen if bookings were taken. The owners would have to pay for the staff and all the other overheads out of a significantly lesser amount of customers; therefore those customers need to pay more, or other parameters of the business have to change.
In the end it is true; you can’t have your cake and eat it too. Restaurants have to work from a business plan and to a budget. The costs are rent, staff, food suppliers, beverages and general overheads. Once GST is taken off the top and all of these other costs are paid, then hopefully there is a little left over for the operator.
A no bookings policy allows the restaurant to reduce some of these costs. It is also important to note that we have lots of choice in Sydney, so if you want to book, there are many restaurants where you can, and if not, then get there early or late, or line up and enjoy the value.