L'Arpege – A trip down memory lane
December 1st, 2009. Posted by luane
L’Arpege is one of my favourite restaurants in the world.
I first went there in January 1993 with Ken Hom and had a wonderful meal. I will never forget that veal cutlet for 2 people carved at the table and a beautiful celeriac gratin. In those days the menu had side dishes to go with mains, I started out that meal with the legendary egg and maple syrup and had one of my all time favourite entrees of veal sweetbreads with truffle and chestnuts. I love being in Paris in truffle season and this dish was so good that over my next 4 visits I started with the very same marvellous sweet bread dish.
I was there the night in April 1996 when Alain Passard received his third Michelin star, he was a very happy man indeed. I have dined there a total of 14 times over the ensuing years so you might guess that it is a favourite. I love the total focus on produce, most of the vegetables come from his garden outside Paris and the preparation is completely simple, but at the same time complex, but don’t try this at home folks, it really requires great understanding to pull out the flavours.
I was lucky enough to visit 3 times this year, one lunch and two dinners. Lots of the menu is vegetable based. On my last visit I ate peas, strawberries and basil with a light onion cream sauce, it should have been crazy but was one of the most delicious things I have ever eaten, the key being the peas straight from the garden that morning.
Most of the mains come out roasted, are presented whole, then come back to the table after being carved in the kitchen and paired with seasonal vegetables and a delicious sauce. I love the roast lobster or the lobster with sweet and sour raw turnips, either is a cracker. Fish roasted whole on the bone is wonderful and moist and the chicken cooked in vine leaves divine. The cheese in incredible - the old vintage Comte from 04 was so deep with flavour. Alain is famous for the sweet tomato dessert, but my two favourites are the Mille Feuille that is so light you can eat the largest slab without any problem and the apple tart with every rosette made from pure apple.
You may have guessed that I’m fond of this restaurant, it is my absolute favourite in Paris.
Tags: Alain Passard, France, l'Arpege, Neil Perry, Paris, travel
My favourite restaurant in Paris too. First visited in May 1988 and unfortunately only been back five times.
Alain has 3 potagers (farms) that produce pretty well all their fruit and vegetables and only have things in season – so now tomatoes when we visited in April. The old website was better, with far more info on his biodynamic philosophy than the modern version.
The cheese trolley has a seriously good selection.
Think I need a rotary slicer to make those apple tarts.
Memories … radishes with butter, ravioli with delectably light pasta….
Merci beaucoup.
omg. Yummy.
Love the historical perspective – please keep these trips down memory lane coming!
l’Arpège is magic.
So many of Passard’s dishes have become my benchmarks…the lobster – both with vin jaune and aigre-doux; turbot; sole; millefeuille… the list goes on.
From the photos, that tomate à la moutarde d’Orléans and canard de Challans a l’hibiscus also stand out
I too am rather fond of this place.
Great post! l’Arpège is fabulous!You’re right – the cuisine of Alain Passard is unforgettable.