per se, New York

Written on 15th November 2011
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Thomas Keller is in my opinion one of the greatest chefs on the planet. I’m sure it is his sense of generosity and drive that allows him to run so many amazing restaurants. His ability to build a team, share with them his philosophy and watch it rub off onto them is wonderful.

It is also his amazing attention to detail that drives his greatest restaurants – The French laundry and Per Se. They share much more than just the famous Blue Door and it is his overriding push for perfection that make it all go round.

On my last trip to New York I was lucky enough to dine at Per Se. It is such a wonderful restaurant and this is something you feel as soon as you walk through the door. The service and attention to every aspect of the dining room is truly amazing.

I have said it more than once to as many people who will listen. I think the service there is the best in the world, with all the professionalism of Europe and the approachability of the States. The perfect combination.

Sam and I were so lucky to sit there and watch the sun going down on Central Park as we ate a procession of wonderful dishes and great wine served by the most delightful front of house you would want to meet anywhere.

The key to Thomas’s food is amazing produce, grown, fished and gathered by people who understand his philosophy and try to deliver the best they can each day. Then the great craft of cooking kicks in, and add brilliant service and you have one of the world’s finest restaurants.

I love this place so much, here is a photographic rundown of the marvellous diner we had.

The door replicates the entrance to The French Laundry, Thomas’s 3-starred restaurant in Yountville, California

Filtered water by Fresh

The wine list on an iPad… The wine list app was designed by Apple themselves, so you can imagine how user friendly it is. Thomas really thinks of everything.

Butter salted and unsalted, by his small producer in Vermont

Six different types of salts

 

The famous salmon tatare cone

Gougeres

Soy Bean “Panna Cotta”
Yuzu Granité

Carrot “Velouté”
Hadly Orchards’ Medjool Dates and Madras Curry

“Oysters and Pearls”
“Sabayon” of Pearl Tapioca with Island Creek Oysters and Tsar Imperial Osetra Caviar

Grilled Spanish Octopus
“Piperade”, Picholine Olives and Parsley Shoots

“Deviled Egg”
Tsar Imperial Osetra Caviar, Cucumber Gelée and Old Bay “Mousse”

 “Torchon” of Êlevages Perigord Moulard Duck Foie Gras
Slow Roasted Ruby Beets, Brooks Cherries and Belgian Endive served with Toasted Brioche

Broiled Japanese Aji
Koshihikari Rice, Kanzuri, Broccoli and Pickled Ginger

Morel Mushroom Tart
Horseradish Crème Fraîche and Watercress

Australian Abalone “Poêle”
per se Falafel, Roasted Eggplant Puree and Cilantro

Heirloom Asparagus
Smoked Ham, Young Onions and French Pickle Sauce

Fillet of Atlantic Halibut
Vallarta Bean “Soffrito”, Haricots Verts, Garlic Confit, Arugula and Armando Manni Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Butter Poached Nova Scotia Lobster
Mango Relish, Preserved Green Tomatoes, Pickled Ramps and Cilantro Puree

Four Story Hill Farm’s Poularde
“Paella” Rice, English Peas, Moroccan Olives and Crispy Porchetta

100 Day Dry Aged American Wagyu
Spinach Gratin and “Escargots à la Bourgogne”

“Champagne and Roses”
Cream Cheese “Panna Cotta”, Pink Champagne Granité, Strawberries and Rose Sorbet

“Blueberry Short-Stack”
Macerated Blue Berries, Blis Maple Syrup and Custard Ice Cream

“Chocolate Milk”
Dark Chocolate Torte, Caramelised Milk Jam, Toasted Hazelnuts and Battenkill Farm’s Milk Ice Cream

Calera, Pinot Noir, “Selleck Vineyard”, Mt. Harlan 2006
Domaine Jen-Marc Morey, “Les Ciallerets”, Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru 2008
Trimbach, Riesling, “Cuvée Frédéric Emile”, Alsace 1990

Kongsgaard, Chardonnay, Napa Valley 2008

Chateau Pajzoz, Aszú, 5 Puttonyos, Tokaji, Hungary 1993

White Chocolate Truffles

Platter of Chocolates

Dark Chocolate Truffles

 “Mignardises”

Awesome kitchen, awesome staff, awesome meal.